Quality Breeder vs. Junk Breeder
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WE HAVE GOTTEN SEVERAL COMPLIMENTS ON THIS PAGE FROM OUR CUSTOMERS LOOKING FOR QUALITY ROTTWEILERS AS TO EDUCATING PEOPLE WHAT A JUNK BREEDER IS OR A PUPPY MILL AND/OR MOM/POP BREEDER IS VERSUS QUALITY.
BELOW IS A GENERAL MEANING OF IT TAKEN FROM THE WORDS OF THE SPCA, SO PEOPLE CAN EDUCATE THEMSELVES FROM PEOPLE OR BREEDERS WHO DO NOT PRACTICE ETHICAL AND MORAL BREEDING STANDARDS FOR THE BETTERMENT OF THE BREED. AND PEOPLE WHO DO WANT TO BUY FROM QUALITY BREEDERS WHO DO THEIR TESTS.

BELOW YOU WILL FIND A LIST OF THINGS THAT WE PERSONALLY HAVE BEEN TOLD, HEARD FROM OTHERS OR HAVE READ FROM PEOPLE OR SUCH BREEDERS MAKE SUCH EXCUSES FOR POOR BREEDING PRACTICES, SOME JUNK BREEDERS SAY I AM "BREEDER BASHING". THIS IS THE USA, THEY DO HAVE A CHOICE AS I DO AND MANY OTHERS WHO CHOOSE TO EITHER BREED QUALITY OR NOT.
MANY OF COURSE CHOOSE TO BREED LESS QUALITY OF A DOG OR DO NOT BELIEVE THERE IS A DIFFERENCE. THAT IS A CHOICE OF COURSE OF THE PERSON OR BREEDERS. IT'S CALLED EDUCATING YOU THE BUYER. WE WANTED TO EDUCATE YOU WITH WHAT WE HAVE PERSONALLY EXPIERENCED THROUGH THE YEARS WHEN LOOKING FOR A PUPPY AS A FAMILY PET, AS WE HAD PERSONALLY EXPIERENCED OURSELVES BEFORE GETTING INTO BREEDING QUALITY ROTTWIELERS. THIS IS SO YOU CAN MAKE A GOOD CHOICE ASK THE QUESTIONS YOU NEED TO WHEN LOOKING, AND WHAT YOU WANT TO SPEND YOUR MONEY ON, AND BRING INTO YOUR FAMILY. I PERSONALLY WISH I HAD THIS SUPPORT FROM SOMEONE WHEN I WAS LOOKING FOR OUR PETS!

SO HERE YOU ARE..... THEIR IS A REASON WE BREED THE QUALITY WE DO AND BY THE PERSONAL STANDARD WE DO, BECAUSE WE WANT TO DO BETTER! PERSONALLY BECAUSE WE CARE! WE DO NOT CARE FOR JUNK BREEDERS, PUPPY MILLS, DOG FIGHTING, ABUSERS, MOM/POP BREEDERS, MIX BREEDERS, ANY OTHERS WE MISSED WHO DO NOT DO THE BREED ANY JUSTICE. THIS IS HOW WE PERSONALLY FEEL. AND DO NOT SUPPORT SUCH BREEDING PRACTICES ABOVE. THEY DO THE FAMILIES NO GOOD AND THE BREED AND THE POOR PUPS WHO ARE THE PRODUCTS OF SUCH POOR BREEDING THAT CAN OCCUR WHEN PEOPLE DO NOT CARE!

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UPDATES:

SOME COMMENTS MADE BY STUPID OR TRASH BREEDERS: THANK YOU TO SOME CUSTOMERS WHO HAVE RELATED SOME OF THESE TO US IN THEIR CONVERSATIONS WITH SUCH SO CALLED BREEDERS WHEN CALLING FOR A PUP. THIS REMINDS ME OF THE SLOGAN, "YOU CAN'T FIX STUPID!" SOMETIMES THIS IS TRUE......

#1) EXAMPLE, "WE BREED... SO OUR DOGS CAN PAY FOR THEIR VET BILLS". THERE IS NO PET INSURANCE OUT THEIR FOR YOU, HAU? I KNOW
AKC OFFERS IT... IF YOU CAN'T AFFORD YOUR PETS MAYBE YOU SHOULDN'T HAVE ANY?


#2) ANOTHER GOOD ONE:...."MY INBRED DOG PASSED IT'S HIP TEST",.... NOW LET'S CONTINUE TO CARRY ON THE LINE TO "BETTER THE BREED!"......REALLY? OR SHOULD WE JUST KEEP BEATING IT WITH THE UGLY STICK AND CALL IT A WINNER?!

#3) SADLY HEARD FROM A SHELTER GROUP TODAY ABOUT A ONCE THOUGHT OF QUALITY KENNEL SELLING THEIR INTACT DOGS TO JUNK BREEDERS TO BREED TO. KINDA SAD MONEY TAKES PRESADENCE OVER WHAT IS DOING RIGHT BY THE BREED AND CARING ABOUT THE DOGS THEMSELVES IF YOU ARE TRULY AN ANIMAL LOVER FOR THE BETTERMENT OF THE BREED, THIS WOULD NEVER BE DONE. I GUESS WHAT YOU SELL TO SAYS A LOT ABOUT YOU AS A PERSON/ YOUR KENNEL/YOUR DOGS AND WHAT YOU TRULY REPRESENT AS A MORAL AND ETHICAL PERSON, AND WHAT YOU STAND FOR. IN THE END IT IS ONLY SAD FOR THE DOGS THAT ARE SOLD.
ALYSSA, YOU ALWAYS DID TELL ME SHITTY PEOPLE CAN OWN NICE DOGS....THIS IS SADLY ANOTHER TRUE STATEMENT. AGAIN, SAD FOR THE DOG.
.....TRUTH IS YOU ARE AS GOOD AS YOUR NAME,.... YOUR NAME IS ONLY AS GOOD AS YOUR WORD!

 

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A friend of mine was talking to some substandard breeders who had said they noticed some kennels or people who do did the hips/elbows at under 2 yrs. of age as that was not a certifications. So like usual we here them talking about something they do not know. The reason they did not know is because of course they do not do their certifications or even a prelim on their dogs. You can not check one dog and breed to another who is not checked, I guess I do not see the point in the certification/prelim if you are not going to do it right or all the dogs. So you really can't say you have "done everything" if you have done nothing. So please make sure who you are talking with, because as you see from this page we have personally delt with substandard breeders and people who have no clue in what they are breeding (inbreeding) or anything about health tests. Thus miss informing others..... But they sure try and talk it! also when they can rip on good QUALITY breeders that truly care and do what they are to do for the betterment on the breed, kinda is a HUGE indicator of their character and knowledge and what they want for their future customers & puppies or from their dogs, little as possible.........

With OVC, ADRK at 18 months. It is called a certification that is the age for OVC & ADRK registration.
OFA is not the only registery for certification. Obvously these people have no clue about what they are talking about (as these such breeders or people do not do them). And missinform others of such poor information and do not have knowledge of such things because they do not believe in practicing or doing them within their breeding practices. Which is a choice each breeder choses to hold themself to such standards and what they want in their dogs/pups and program. Some choose to care less.

With OFA (American registery/certification) if it is under age 2 yrs. it is called a prelim. These people such as above who do not practice such important things, personally are called substandard breeders go onto say and make such comments to us, such as, "people doing these prelims are unethical and unmoral or Cheat the system" first know what the words mean. The only breeders personally I feel and others would agree who are unethical and unmoral are those not testing their dogs and/ or breeding their dogs at just over 1 yr., inbreeding, those who lie about their pedigrees and where their dogs come from on that pedigree to name such examples of unmoral and unethical breeding practices.

Again, Kudo's for those people or breeders who care enough to at least do their checks close to breeding age and certifying! More than what I can say for many out there we have personally seen of their breeding practices. Which is a freedom and a choice.... their will always sadly be buyers for these such breeders, they are in their own market. People just like them who do not care about what they buy, and want a cheap low end dog, some to stick on a chain and be used to guard and be forgotten about or maybe a good family who the junk breeder does not tell them how their breeding program really is ran and the problems they very well possibly may sucome to in the future to their many years of so called "quality breeding" it is what they personally view as quality in their mind, sadly. Never had an uphappy customer I hear them say to me. Guess what?... we get your unhappy customers coming to us years down the road and they remember where they got their dog and they arn't happy when they do find out the truth and do their home work sadly after the fact, if they would had done their home work or I guess asked the important questions. The customer will find out in the end. So talk with your professionals, breed clubs or read up on the dog ou would like to purchase if it is right for your family.

Good breeders who do what they are suppose to do, have nothing to hide in their programs. Because good breeders do the best that they can, for the dogs, pups, people and the future of the breed. These are facts of quality breeders who care. Junk can knock on them all they want, "Jelousy is a form of flattery", so we thank you!

And it is kinda funny because sometimes we will find such a breeder who knocks on the genetics of quality breeders yet they may have one dog who has them done, good? or fair maybe? But maybe doesn't practice it? And then says they mentor off a "quality breeder", or even have refered to a breeder who is quality and does what they should. funny thing is I don't know a real true quaity breeder who has anything to do with a substandard or substandard unmoral and unethical valued breeder? How can one help such a breeder who doesn't believe in doing what is best for the breed, the pup or the people who buy? You can't help someone who doesn't want it. Just kinda wierd a so called quality breeder would want something to do with an unethical/unmoral breeder?


We personally do not work with junk breeders or puppy mills, pet shops or brokers nor do we refer them to people. Those type of people looking for a cheap dog assume sadly have heard they use junk breeders dogs to sadly bait their fighting dogs as we have because they do not keep in touch and ask for little info. and do not check up on them. As horrible as it sounds those people are not going to spend money on nice quality dog and these awful people know right where to go. Never ever give away your dog in the paper either.


These such people go on to say to us & others as we have heard in the past, "OFA is hardest to pass for hips than over seas ratings" This is another untrue statments made by people of no knowledge of what they are talking about. There is no statement on OFA, OVC or ADRK that any is better than the other. No one I have ever talked to from either of these registeries when I asked, would dare even make such a comment, nor can they prove it, they are all credited registeries and all very qualified to certify or prelim a dogs hips/elbows!!

More untrue statements made we came across or commented to us on:

If the breeder has OFA'd it will be on their AKC papers. Well every owner has the choice by marking the little box on the OFA paper work to say, "yes, I would like my results shown" OR.... "No I would not like my results shown" on the AKC papers. So if the owner of the dog chooses not to post, they obvously will not be on their OR... they did not do them... OR.... they have done them BUT gone with another registery other than OFA (such as ADRK, OVC for example) So ask the breeder who does not have them on their paper work if reg. with AKC or UKC, ask to see a copy before buying a pup of their hip cert. AKC has made a deal with OFA, I was told and only posts OFA hip/elbow certifications of 2 yrs. and over. They do not do it for any other registery, not because they are not better, BUT.... because that is just the board rules that AKC has choose to do. (I personally called and asked) So make sure you see the parents cert. and the grandparents ect... in the pedigree BEFORE you buy. the breeder should have that or if quality dogs of merit in the pedigree they should have those to show you as well they got from their breeder. So make sure when you are reading some peoples site you too do your home work, breeders who do not do the above or do not show their pedigrees on their dogs might be a heads up they have something to hide or make excuses not to show you them? Quality breeders are proud to show you their dogs and their accomplishements! Poor breeders like to think you the public are dumb and don't ask such questions of them. They don't want you too. They are not just going to come out and tell you they are puppy mill or back yard breeder of low standards. And of course they are going to tell you they have "quality" lines but yet they don't want to show you any of their "quality lines?!" pretty fishy hmmmm.
They also like to rip on breeders who do care and do, do what they are suppose to do, to better the breed that would be another red flag!

Remember anyone can breed anything and just because they have been breeding for many yrs. doesn't mean as we have personally seen, they are good breeders or quality breeder! So just a quick tip for you on how to do your research when looking to add a family member to your home.

Poor breeders make excuses not to put their word in writing, some may tell you, you have the state lemon law to fall back on (each state is different, just like each breeder is different) Good quality breeders that care about you and their pups, always have a contract that benefits, your puppy,you and them and are happy to put their word on paper. If they don't want to put it in writing or check for genetic issues (with proof) for to a 2 yr. I would walk away, and personally spend your money elsewhere. They can make a lot of promises to you over the phone and to your face. But on paper it is even better for you. Have them back up what they are breeding or promising you! Oh.. and ask them if they will take their puppy back if you should have to fall on hard times. Good breeders always take their dogs back if need be.

Such breeders have told customers we have heard who went to their vet and came to us as well in questioning. Some breeders "told the customer not to fall for American born dogs (whatever that means?) with other countries hip registery (OVC, ADRK ect..) as this is missleading (again; whatever that means?) one customer said, the breeder stated to them, they take the x-ray here in this USA and send out to other countries, so it was "misleading" because if the dogs are german bred, (and will always be bred the way it is), and by doing this they "cheat the system"? There was never a law stating only certain countries can to do bred dogs hips/elbows!! where these people or breeders come up with this garbage information?!
Well let me clearify this. This breeder or person who said this to these people, as far as breeders cheat the system? (at least people who breed are testing them! How can you cheat the system if it is a certification or a prelim with a radioligist and specialist!?) This person or breeder obvously has never ever done a hip certification ever on their dogs or even knows how it is even done then! IF.. they ever did do it or have a clue, they would know how STUPID they sound to know that; YES, YOU DO ACTUALLY TAKE AN X-RAY OF YOUR DOGS HIPS FROM YOUR VET, AND SEND THEM OFF TO ANY REGISTERY YOU CHOOSE, TO HAVE THEM CERTIFIED OR PRELIM BY A CREDITED HIPS/ELBOW REGISTERY!!!! IT DOES NOT MATTER THE NATIONALITY OR WHERE THE DOG WAS BORN! BE IT OVC, ADRK, OR OFA!! THEY ARE ALL A LAGIT REGISTERY, NO ONE CAN "CHEAT THE SYSTEM" BY DOING WHAT THEY ARE SUPPOSE TO!... NO WONDER WHY THIS BREED AND OTHER BREEDS ARE PLAGUED WITH GENETIC DISORDERS BECAUSE OF PEOPLE OR SUCH SO CALLED BREEDERS AS LIKE THIS!

SO I AM GLAD AFTER HEARING THESE PEOPLE MAKE SUCH FOOLISH COMMENTS TO PEOPLE OR TO US ON A PERSONAL BASIS, THESE PEOPLE DESIDED TO QUESTION IT AND DO THEIR OWN HOME WORK AS THEY DID FOR THEMSELF. AND NOW THEY KNOW WHAT THESE SO CALLED BREEDERS OR PEOPLE KNOW ABOUT BREEDING, HIP CERTIFICATIONS AND PRELIMS AND REGISTERY FOR THEM. .......NOTHING!!

THIS VERY REASON IS WHY WE SAY, DO YOUR HOMEWORK, DO YOUR HOMEWORK...... only then can you make a good choice for you and the dog you want to spend your money on and bring into your family a family companion.

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The defintions of backyard breeder and puppy mill were taken from SPCA definition:

Backyard breeder:
An owner whose pet may have an unplanned litter by accident, or who breeds on purpose. Common reasons cited include: making extra money, mistakenly believing every dog should have a litter, letting the children witness "the miracle of birth," or because they think their dog would make cute puppies. The animals involved are generally not tested for health or genetic problems, and typically there is no thought to where the puppies will go. They are the single greatest cause of pet overpopulation. Many are sold locally.


Puppy mill:
The National Companion Animal Coalition defines puppy mills as a high-volume, or low- volume sub-standard dog breeding operation, which sells purebred or mixed-breed dogs, to unsuspecting buyers who do not do their homework on the breed or breeder. Characteristics common to puppy mills include: sub-standard health and/or environment issues; sub-standard animal care & enviroment, treatment and/or socialization; sub-standard breeding practices which lead to genetic defects or hereditary disorders; and erroneous or falsified certificates of registration, pedigree, show titles and/or genetic background checks. Note: These conditions may also exist in small single-breed or paired establishments.

 


-QUALITY REPUTABLE BREEDER-
 Morals & Ethics are the backbone of any QUALITY /REPUTABLE Breeder. Owning, breeding, raising, training, and showing Rottweilers will ALWAYS be an enjoyable hobby and NEVER a business for me; this is a very expensive hobby with many rewarding times especially with our happy families for our puppies, enjoyable time spent with our rotties, and our numerous wins. Attempting to earn a living and mass producing this wonderful breed makes for mediocre puppies and will ultimately ruin the breed. We hold ourselves to a higher standard and have several great bitches that bring a proven quality to the Rottweiler breed –vs- having below standard bitches and breeding to just any or every male just because it is there. In the end, it all goes back to a proven, genetically superior bitch and sire. Excellence in a breeding program does not happen by accident, it is done with a STRONG knowledge for the breed, TRUE commitment, and excellent resources. Just look at what we have produced time and time again that consistency of excellence is just one more thing we don’t take lightly.


Quality breeders will give you a WRITTEN guarantee on the puppies/dogs health, and no you will not have to give your dog back if something happens we replace them with another puppy of quality… like you paid for in the first place…. We don’t want our dogs or puppies going to the pound or shelters(they have enough junk breeders dogs there) so we require them to come back to us if for any reason your not able to care for them anymore…. That is what reputable ethical breeders do… Not just sell them and forget about them. We want lifelong homes for our dogs and we will rehome them again if need be as we know that unforseen emergencies happen.
Quality Ethical Breeders care about the puppies and dogs that they produce and will only use in their breeding programs sires and bitches of MERIT. Merit meaning that they have their genetic health test done and have passed them at the very least, with the bonus being that they have Championship show and working titles under multiple judges. The sires and dams don’t have to be Imported but overseas they have tighter regulations and do not let just any dogs breed. The dogs there have to pass temperment tests, be sound in conformation according to the breed standard. (Examples / Pictures of what you want to see in a Rottweiler listed below or click here)


Breeding/show Puppies -vs- Pet/companion only puppies…. This is an issue that a lot of customers wonder about and JUNK Breeders just don’t understand. Quality Breeders that have customers that want to show or breed a puppy they are getting , the breeder will set asside usually the first or second pick puppy in the litter and if that puppy when it is time to leave is of show quality meeting all the very strict requirements like scissors bite, good markings, great head and stop, good movement etc then and only then will that puppy be sold as a breeding show dog. We cannot guarantee that the puppy will win in the ring but we can guarantee that it will fit standards and like even our pet puppies that it will pass all the genetic health clearances when it comes time.


As you will see throughout our site that we have tons of info for you and we hope you take the time to read it.
Below you will see many examples that we have been collecting over time, things we have personally seen, things that have been sent to us from our customers and fellow breeders who enjoy and want to help educate you the customer. There are pictures, quotes from so called breeders/mom & pop venture, etc , and much more. Feel free to contact us or send us more info and would be happy to add it so everyone can be well aware.

 

-JUNK BREEDERS - MOM &POP Breeders – Family Run Breeding Venture ETC… -
Junk breeders in my opinion are people who breed anything that is black and tan and that is it. The dog itself doesn’t even represent the breed in any form in fact it actually looks more like a doberman or a lab… Well if you want that then go buy that. They may say they have champion pedigrees well where its not champion if it is 3, 5 or more generations back, The lines may have started off titled but without the tites and health clearances now it doesn’t mean a thing its garbage. Male or female with no gentetic health clearings or any merit in there pedigrees of CHAMPIONS or at the very least critiques and placings with a judge are JUNK. When a breeder or person doesn’t reinvest time and money into keeping the quality in a breed or there dogs they use to breed you loose all the quality of the dog and breeding. Mom & Pop breeders are the same as a junk breeder just because you have a “pair” of dogs doesn’t mean they should be bred and it sure doesn’t make them better for only having 2 dogs because the soundness of the breed and the health clearances are still not there. All this means is they are just producing less junk puppies at a time than a junk breeder with more junk dogs its as simple as that. They are in it for the money and that is all the wrong reasons. A male and female being “sweet” is NOT a reason to breed them!! And it does NOT make a female nicer to have a litter of pups…???!!! That is one of the dumbest things I have heard.
They can give themselves any name they like but an apple is a apple. Junk Breeder, Mom & Pop breeder, Family Run Breeding Venture, etc… it is all the same thing if the clearances are not there in written plain proof for you to see…. RUN!!! And RUN FAST!!!! Some will even say they only have 3 or 4 dogs and yet they show more but ohh wait those are owned by their son, daughter, brother, mother, sister, whoever… it doesn’t matter they still use them and therefor they are part of their breeding…. Again if it looks like a lemon and smells like a lemon it probably is a lemon….

Junk Breeders/Mom & Pop Breeders/Family Breeding Venture, will make up excuses and say that x-rays can give dogs cancer so they don’t do it. Have you ever had an x-ray?? Did you get cancer?? Or another good one they like to say and that we have heard is they have never had any problems with their dogs hips and they never limp and their family vet said they are fine… Well family vets don’t specialize in HIPS & ELBOWS!!! OFA, OVC, ADRK and PENN HIP they specialize in them and they are the only ones who know what they are looking at and can certify a dogs HIPS & ELBOWS. OFA/OVC/ADRK will read and do hip/elbow certifications on dogs that are born here in the USA they do not have to be from another country like Germany or Canada…. All you have to do is have an accredited vet do the x-rays and send them to be certified and their vets will determine the ratings… This to they like to say isnt possible but it is….All the time.

We also hear a lot of we had a OOPS Litter…. Well the truth is that junk breeders/mom & pop/Family breeding ventures do not want to shell out money or pay for the genetic health clearance tests because that costs them and they do not want to have to put the dog in a new home and start all over if the dog does not pass so they just breed it and pass their junk on to you the customer who is looking for a little cheaper dog with NO GUARANTEE!!! See how that works…. Some will say that Minnesota has a puppy lemon law… Yes it does look it up it gives you a guarantee for healthy puppy but you should get that no matter what but it doesn’t guarantee that the puppy wont have GENETIC problems that don’t show till after a year old… You can OFA/OVC/ADRK/PENN hip & elbow test dogs at a year and a half old and not to mention that the 2 year guarantee is from the date purchased…. Also, If your dog doesn’t have hip/elbow dysplasia at 2 it wont just develop it at a later date…. Yes the bigger dogs breeds and the older they get do get arthritis but so do us humans…. That is why we as REPUTABLE breeders recommend vitamins with gluclosamine (see nutrition page for more info) JUNK Breeders will claim some pretty crazy stuff jut to justify their means of not spending any money on their dogs other than if the dog is lucky its yearly shots and crap dog food.

They also like to put huge write ups on their sites and ads and talk about how quality breeders bash them or whatever…. The proof is in the pudding as they say and you can see for yourself in paper and awesome looks what is and isnt a quality dog… QUALITY breeders want to educate you the public and future customers so you don’t waste your money. If you get one thing and one thing only from everything you read here make sure your puppies parents have all their clearances done and you SEE the paperwork and get copies of it and also that you get a WRITTEN Guarantee. Oh and of course that your rottie will look like a rottie when it grows up… if the mom and dad are small boned, little heads, no markings, and resemble a lab or doberman more than a rottweiler then that is exactly what your puppy will look like when grown up no ways around that…. Puppies are cute but really ?!?!? A quality healthy genetically sound rottie is much cuter and will be there a lot longer…?

 

-PUPPYMILLS-
You the customers drive that market. You keep them breeding their junk. If you do not buy it, their $300-$600 and up JUNK, they would not breed it, they don’t want to be stuck with pups. This you who buy from this filth keep the puppymills going. Quality breeders do not sell their puppies and dogs to pet shops, so that cute puppy in the window, KEEP WALKING!!! You Buy it, YOU SUPPORT IT!!! Plain and simple. They can say they know the breeder and they are “quality” ask for their name and phone number and where you can go to see where they live, see if they give it to you. QUALITY breeders care where their dogs go and they do not sell their puppies in a puppy shop!!

 

-SOME MORE COMMON THINGS WE HERE-
A common thing that I hear is "I dont want to buy from a Big Kennel, or a Big Name Breeder" What does that really mean? I am confused whenever someone tells me that or I hear them say that. I always ask what do you mean and they never have a explination. So my question is does having alot of dogs make you a "Big Name Breeder or Big Kennel" or does Winning and Showing your dogs all over and in different registries such as USRC, UKC, UCI etc?? I am not sure... So to me I want to put this thought in your head as long as the GENETIC testing and the Paperwork is available in proof of it is there, the number of dogs should NOT matter because that breeder CARES enough about there dogs and the Breed to do them the justice of testing them. Now, to me if you show your dogs and you win and such and if you do the testing that too is a GOOD breeder NOT a "Big Name Breeder or a Big Kennel", that is just someone who loves to show and make sure that an "Outside Eye"(the Judge) thinks the same thing about the dogs in there kennel and therefore they win. SO, please dont think just because someone has multiple dogs and shows in big shows and travels all over the country to do so that they are a bad person or Kennel to buy a puppy from. The bigger concern is buying from JUNK breeders who I refer to them as that are BIG Kennels or BIG Breeders that SELL and BREED JUNK!!! because they dont do the GENETIC testing that should be done and they just throw two dogs together and sell puppies to make money. Backyard or Junk Breeders can have 2 dogs or 50 dogs and anyway you look at it or any way you cut it they are junk. Now the GOOD breeders can have 2 dogs or 20 dogs as well and as long as they are cared for with plenty of room to run, given good dog food and water, GENETIC tested for Hip/Elbow Dysplasia, CERF, and Cardio, and Socialize the dogs constantly so that they are good with everyone they come in contact with that should be YOUR main concern.
Now, with all that said, go and see the home of where your getting your puppy from or if your purchasing a puppy from a long distance away get pictures and references for the kennel from previous customers, friends or other kennels that would put there name on the kennel you are looking at. See for yourself how the dogs are treated, socialized, and how they act with you that should tell you everything you need to know and limit your chances of getting a JUNK breeder or BACK YARD breeder who is just looking for some extra money.

Good INFO to Know:

THERE ARE MANY LOW SUBSTANDARD BREEDERS WHO I HAVE PERSONALLY TALKED TO WHO THINK THAT IF THEY GO TO THE VET AND GET AN X-RAY ON THEIR DOGS HIPS THE VET CAN READ IT AND TELL THEM IT IS GOOD OR BAD, THAT IS NOT SOMETHING A VET IS QUALIFIED TO SAY OR DO AND THE VETS KNOW THEY ARE NOT, AS MY VET PERSONALLY HAS TOLD US WITH EVERY X-RAY WE HAVE DONE. ONLY A PROFFESIONAL RADIOLOGIST WHO SPECIALIZES IN THIS CAN PRELIM AND CERTIFY THE HIPS/ELBOWS. ANY BREEDER WHO TELLS YOU, "THIS IS JUST AS GOOD OR ANY DIFFERENT" I GUESS DOES NOT FEEL THEIR DOGS CAN PASS A PROFESSIONALS EXAM OF A RADIOLIST'S TEST AND CERTIFICATION. ALSO WE BLOCKED OFF THE PERSONS INFORMATION FOR THEIR PRIVACY, BUT AS YOU CAN SEE FROM THE X-RAY BELOW, IF ANYONE WAS GOING TO SEND IN ANY X-RAY TO BE READ BY A HIP/ELBOW CERTIFICATION PLACE, THEY MUST HAVE THE DATE, THE DOGS NAME, REGISTRATION NUMBER. AND IF THEY DID SEND IT IN, THEY SHOULD HAVE THE CERTIFICATE OF PASSING OR READING.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE 2 X-RAYS BELOW? WELL ONE PASSED AND THE OTHER DID NOT PASS. NOW THE VET THAT DID THE FIRST X-RAY STATED, "IT LOOKED GOOD, IT SHOULD PASS ON HER PERSONAL OPINION."....WELL THEY SENT IT IN AND IT DID NOT PASS. NOW IF THIS PERSON WOULD HAD LISTENED TO THE VET ALONE AS SOME DO, AND BRED THIS DOG, THEY WOULD HAD PROBABLY PUT MORE PUPS OUT WITH HIP AND ELBOW ISSUES IF ONLY LISTENING TO THEIR VETS OPINION. THESE HIPS WERE NOT SEVERE THANK GOODNESS FOR THE OWNER OF THE DOG, BUT IT WAS GOOD TO CHECK BEFORE BREEDING HER. SHE WAS SPAYED AFTER THIS RESULT AS NOT TO PASS ONTO GENERATIONS. AND WAS PUT ON A QUALITY GLUCUSAMINE ECT.. AS A PREVENTATIVE.

THE 2ND X-RAY, OUR VET TOLD US AS WELL THEY LOOKED GREAT! AND WE SENT IT IN... PIERCE IS AN EXCELLENT PASSING. THIS IS WHY IT IS GOOD TO HAVE IT PROFESSIONALLY READ BE IT A PRELIM OR CERTIFYING. NOW DO YOU SEE WHY JUST AN X-RAY AND A VETS OPINION IS NOT ALWAYS GOOD ENOUGH. IT IS A WAY TO FOR LOW QUALITY BREEDERS TO SAVE MONEY AND TELL YOU SOMETHING THAT IS NOT CORRECT. BECAUSE THEY ARE NOT INTO DOING WHAT THEY SHOULD TO BETTER THE BREED! SOME WILL TELL YOU IT IS TO "CONTROL THE MARKET" AS WE HAVE HEARD. WELL TO A SCENCE YES, WE WANT TO BREED QUALITY, WE CAN'T "CONTROL" WHAT JUNK BREEDERS SELL TO YOU........ONLY YOU CAN CONTROL THAT!
ONLY WE PERSONALLY CAN CONTROL WHAT QUALITY WE CHOOSE TO BREED AND PUT OUT INTO THIS WORLD!! WE CHOOSE NOT TO CONTRIBUTE TO POOR BREEDING STANDARDS OF SELF PROCLAIMED JUNK BREEDERS. EVEN IF THEY CHOOSE TO DO ONE DOGS HIPS/ELBOWS, BUT DO NOT DO ANY OTHERS THEY ARE BREEDING, THEY DO NOT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE PASSING ON IF THEY ARE NOT DOING A CERTIFICATION BY A PROF. RADIOLOGIST ON ALL DOGS BEING BRED. THUS WE CHOOSE TO DO OUR HIPS/ELBOWS ON ALL OUR DOGS, ...NOT JUST SOME OF OUR DOGS. NO MATTER HOW MANY YEARS SOMEONE TELLS YOU THEY HAVE BEEN BREEDING DOESN'T MAKE THEM A GOOD BREEDER/KENNEL, ASK TO SEE REFERENCES OF WHAT THEY HAVE PRODUCED AND THEIR PEDIGREES TO MAKE SURE THEIR IS NO OVER LINE BREEDING WHICH CAN TURN INTO IN BREEDING. IF THEY CAN'T/WON'T OR MAKE EXCUSES TO SHOW YOU THEIR PEDIGREE. ASK FOR THE DOGS NAMES AND GO ON TO REGISTRATION THEY ARE REGISTERED WITH AND LOOK IT UP YOURSELF! WE HAVE NOTICED IN KENNELS OR MAYBE JUST A FEW DOGS WHO DO NOT WANT TO BRING IN NEW BLOOD SO TO SAY INTO THEIR BREEDING. SO THEY KEEP BACK OFF PAIRINGS AND THEN BREED THEM TO EACH OTHER OVER AND OVER SO CLOSE. THIS IS CALLED "KENNEL BLIND" A TERM THAT OTHERS MAY LIKE TO USE, WHO CHOOSE TO DO THIS, BECAUSE THEY MAY KNOW A LOT ABOUT IT? IT TEACHES US WHAT WE PERSONALLY DO NOT WANT IN OUR KENNEL OR PROGRAM.


THIS WAS A DOG BOUGHT FROM A KENNEL

DOGS HIPS DID NOT PASS, WAS NOT SEVERE

DOGS HIPS THAT PASSED

EXCELLENT HIPS/ ELBOWS

-BEWARE SIGNS-
Look out for breeder who says “ after you get one of our dogs, youll never want any other”. This breeder is obviously kennel blind. Kennel blindness is an ailment that is unfortunately common in a wide number of breeders. A honest breeder will tell you the good points and the bad points of each dogs, and YES, every breed has bad points. There are a lot of good breeders out there, and anyone who tells you that you should purchase one of their dogs and no one elses is definitely obsessed with money, not the good of the breed or the satisfaction of the purchaser.

 

-CONCLUSION-
Now, this all may come off as preachy or negative but we want you to get the best experience possible when purchasing your next family member even if it isnt from us. We can always set you up with another GOOD Kennel/Breeder if we dont have what your looking for or if we dont have anything available. The JUNK breeders will say we are kennel bashing and bad mouth us for telling you all this. We encourage each and every one of our customers to go and see as many breeders as they like before they buy and see what they have to offer and compare. We know for a fact that for the price you pay for our puppies/dogs, you will not find the quality out there with the WRITTEN guarantees.

Ultimately, You may pay more upfront for a quality puppy from a Reputable Quality breeder, but you will have a better bred and healthier dog when the test are checked you have a GUARANTEE for your money and your family member.


You get what you pay for in anything!!! Why would you want to pay a hundred or two dollars less for a dog that doesnt even resemble a rottweiler or have the genetic PROOF to be healthy for LIFE.??? I know I wouldnt I work to hard for my money.

IF YOU CANT TELL WHICH IS A DOBERMAN OR THEY LOOK THAT MUCH ALIKE THERE IS A PROBLEM!!!

THIS IS WHAT A ROTTWEILER PUPPY SHOULD LOOK LIKE!!!

THIS IS WHAT A 4-8 Month OLD ROTTIE SHOULD LOOK LIKE!!(NO Rottweiler should ever go through a dobie stage, they are a rottweiler and should look of the breed standard) Below Left to Right 4month old FEMALE, 5 month old MALE, and 8 month old Female. **You can take as many pics of a bad looking rottie and it still isnt going to look good...A good looking rottie is going to look good in pictures and in person :)

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Rottweiler Breed Standard
Working Group


General Appearance
The ideal Rottweiler is a medium large, robust and powerful dog, black with clearly defined rust markings. His compact and substantial build denotes great strength, agility and endurance. Dogs are characteristically more massive throughout with larger frame and heavier bone than bitches. Bitches are distinctly feminine, but without weakness of substance or structure.

Good Examples:(1st Pic-Heavy bone, Great Head, Good Angulation, Rich Color)(2nd Pic- HEAVY Bone, HUGE Head, Very Rich Color, Dark Eyes)(3rd Pic- Excellent Topline, Excellent Angulation, Excellent Stop and Head, HEAVY Bone, Rich Clear Coloring)

Bad Examples: (1st Pic-Long Muzzle, NO Bone, High Ears)(2nd Pic-Very Muddy Markings, No Bone, very feminine male)(3rd Pic- Fly away ear, Pink Mouth, Narrow Chest, Light Eyes)

Size, Proportion, Substance
Dogs--24 inches to 27 inches. Bitches--22 inches to 25 inches, with preferred size being mid-range of each sex. Correct proportion is of primary importance, as long as size is within the standard's range. The length of body, from prosternum to the rearmost projection of the rump, is slightly longer than the height of the dog at the withers, the most desirable proportion of the height to length being 9 to 10. The Rottweiler is neither coarse nor shelly. Depth of chest is approximately fifty percent (50%) of the height of the dog. His bone and muscle mass must be sufficient to balance his frame, giving a compact and very powerful appearance. Serious Faults--Lack of proportion, undersized, oversized, reversal of sex characteristics (bitchy dogs, doggy bitches).

Head
Of medium length, broad between the ears; forehead line seen in profile is moderately arched; zygomatic arch and stop well developed with strong broad upper and lower jaws. The desired ratio of backskull to muzzle is 3 to 2. Forehead is preferred dry, however some wrinkling may occur when dog is alert. Expression is noble, alert, and self-assured. Eyes of medium size, almond shaped with well fitting lids, moderately deep-set, neither protruding nor receding. The desired color is a uniform dark brown. Serious Faults--Yellow (bird of prey) eyes, eyes of different color or size, hairless eye rim. Disqualification--Entropion. Ectropion. Ears of medium size, pendant, triangular in shape; when carried alertly the ears are level with the top of the skull and appear to broaden it. Ears are to be set well apart, hanging forward with the inner edge lying tightly against the head and terminating at approximately mid-cheek. Serious Faults--Improper carriage (creased, folded or held away from cheek/head). Muzzle--Bridge is straight, broad at base with slight tapering towards tip. The end of the muzzle is broad with well developed chin. Nose is broad rather than round and always black. Lips-Always black; corners closed; inner mouth pigment is preferred dark. Serious Faults--Total lack of mouth pigment (pink mouth). Bite and Dentition--Teeth 42 in number (20 upper, 22 lower), strong, correctly placed, meeting in a scissors bite--lower incisors touching inside of upper incisors. Serious Faults--Level bite; any missing tooth. Disqualifications--Overshot, undershot (when incisors do not touch or mesh); wry mouth; two or more missing teeth.

1st & 2nd Pic- Correct Pendant Ears laying close to head

1st Pic-HIGH, Fly away ears, Poor Muzzle.....2nd Pic- HIGH, Fly away ears, NO Bone/Spindly Bone, Small/Pointy Nose

Examples of Correct Teeth and Correct Eye Color: (Click to enlarge)

Neck, Topline, Body
Neck--Powerful, well muscled, moderately long, slightly arched and without loose skin. Topline--The back is firm and level, extending in a straight line from behind the withers to the croup. The back remains horizontal to the ground while the dog is moving or standing. Body--The chest is roomy, broad and deep, reaching to elbow, with well pronounced forechest and well sprung, oval ribs. Back is straight and strong. Loin is short, deep and well muscled. Croup is broad, of medium length and only slightly sloping. Underline of a mature Rottweiler has a slight tuck-up. Males must have two normal testicles properly descended into the scrotum. Disqualification--Unilateral cryptorchid or cryptorchid males. Tail--Tail docked short, close to body, leaving one or two tail vertebrae. The set of the tail is more important than length. Properly set, it gives an impression of elongation of topline; carried slightly above horizontal when the dog is excited or moving.

Correct Tail Carry when not Docked:

Forequarters
Shoulder blade is long and well laid back. Upper arm equal in length to shoulder blade, set so elbows are well under body. Distance from withers to elbow and elbow to ground is equal. Legs are strongly developed with straight, heavy bone, not set close together. Pasterns are strong, springy and almost perpendicular to the ground. Feet are round, compact with well arched toes, turning neither in nor out. Pads are thick and hard. Nails short, strong and black. Dewclaws may be removed.

1st Pic- CORRECT- Legs coming off Shoulder stright feet not turning in/out.....

Hindquarters
Angulation of hindquarters balances that of forequarters. Upper thigh is fairly long, very broad and well muscled. Stifle joint is well turned. Lower thigh is long, broad and powerful, with extensive muscling leading into a strong hock joint. Rear pasterns are nearly perpendicular to the ground. Viewed from the rear, hind legs are straight, strong and wide enough apart to fit with a properly built body. Feet are somewhat longer than the front feet, turning neither in nor out, equally compact with well arched toes. Pads are thick and hard. Nails short, strong, and black. Dewclaws must be removed.

1st Pic- Correct Color & Angulation .....

Coat
Outer coat is straight, coarse, dense, of medium length and lying flat. Undercoat should be present on neck and thighs, but the amount is influenced by climatic conditions. Undercoat should not show through outer coat. The coat is shortest on head, ears and legs, longest on breeching. The Rottweiler is to be exhibited in the natural condition with no trimming. Fault--Wavy coat. Serious Faults--Open, excessively short, or curly coat; total lack of undercoat; any trimming that alters the length of the natural coat. Disqualification--Long coat.

1st Pic- CORRECT .....

Color
Always black with rust to mahogany markings. The demarcation between black and rust is to be clearly defined. The markings should be located as follows: a spot over each eye; on cheeks; as a strip around each side of muzzle, but not on the bridge of the nose; on throat; triangular mark on both sides of prosternum;on forelegs from carpus downward to the toes; on inside of rear legs showing down the front of the stifle and broadening out to front of rear legs from hock to toes, but not completely eliminating black from rear of pasterns; un-der tail; black penciling on toes. The undercoat is gray, tan, or black. Quantity and location of rust markings is important and should not exceed ten percent of body color. Serious Faults--Straw-colored, excessive, insufficient or sooty markings; rust marking other than described above; white marking any place on dog (a few rust or white hairs do not constitute a marking). Disqualifications--Any base color other than black; absence of all markings.

1st Pic- CORRECT- Rich Mahogany Markings....

Gait
The Rottweiler is a trotter. His movement should be balanced, harmonious, sure, powerful and unhindered, with strong forereach and a powerful rear drive. The motion is effortless, efficient, and ground-covering. Front and rear legs are thrown neither in nor out, as the imprint of hind feet should touch that of forefeet. In a trot the forequarters and hindquarters are mutually coordinated while the back remains level, firm and relatively motionless. As speed increases the legs will converge under body towards a center line.

Temperament
The Rottweiler is basically a calm, confident and courageous dog with a self-assured aloofness that does not lend itself to immediate and indiscriminate friendships. A Rottweiler is self-confident and responds quietly and with a wait-and-see attitude to influences in his environment. He has an inherent desire to protect home and family, and is an intelligent dog of extreme hardness and adaptability with a strong willingness to work, making him especially suited as a companion, guardian and general all-purpose dog.
The behavior of the Rottweiler in the show ring should be controlled, willing and adaptable, trained to submit to examination of mouth, testicles, etc. An aloof or reserved dog should not be penalized, as this reflects the accepted character of the breed. An aggressive or belligerent attitude towards other dogs should not be faulted.
A judge shall excuse from the ring any shy Rottweiler. A dog shall be judged fundamentally shy if, refusing to stand for examination, it shrinks away from the judge. A dog that in the opinion of the judge menaces or threatens him/her, or exhibits any sign that it may not be safely approached or examined by the judge in the normal manner, shall be excused from the ring. A dog that in the opinion of the judge attacks any person in the ring shall be disqualified.

Summary
Faults - The foregoing is a description of the ideal Rottweiler. Any structural fault that detracts from the above described working dog must be penalized to the extent of the deviation.

Disqualifications
Entropion, ectropion. Overshot, undershot (when incisors do not touch or mesh); wry mouth; two or more missing teeth. Unilateral cryptorchid or cryptorchid males. Long coat. Any base color other than black; absence of all markings. A dog that in the opinion of the judge attacks any person in the ring.

What to Look for as far as what kennels should Look Like where your get your rottweiler from???

The dogs should be in clean Humane conditions with Grass to run and play on, Secure Kennels, NOT Chained UP! The dogs should have CLEAN Food and Water, Each dog or at the most 2 in a kennel area together should have plenty of room to run and play below are some examples of RED Flags you want to keep an eye out for and Pictures of GOOD Kennels and Runs.

GOOD EXAMPLES:(Run/Training Area, BIG Kennel, Whelping Area, More Pics Coming..)

BAD EXAMPLES: NO Grass or Water/food, Tethered to a Tree, MORE PICS Coming...

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TOP 10: ROTTWEILER Junk Breeders' Worst Excuses


Here are the TOP TEN Worst Excuses which Junk Breeders/Mom & Pop Breeders/Family Run Breeding venues of the Rottweiler have actually used to explain why they do not health test their Rottweiler breeding stock. The excuses are listed in reverse order, from the least offensive to the most outrageous. And, be sure to check out the ultimate breeder's excuse at the bottom of this page. This has been compiled and there may be more out their but these are ones not only us but other Quality Reputable breeders have submitted

#10. I refuse to have my Rottweilers hips x-rayed because they get cancer! Veterinarians and veterinary assistants who are competent with radiography equipment can x-ray the hips of Rottweilers without any problems, for Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) evaluations. You do not get cancer when you have x-rays for broken bones or other health concerns nor does your dog.

#9. Heath tested and cleared dogs still could be carriers for a genetic defect and produce defective puppies, so why bother? Genetic health test clearances do not guarantee that Rottweiler puppies will be disease-free, but the odds in favor of producing genetic disease-free Rottweiler puppies are greatly increased when only tested and cleared Rotts are bred, and therefore it is irresponsible to the puppies and the buyers to not test and clear all Rottweiler breeding stock.

#8. I can tell whether any of my Rottweilers have hip dysplasia by watching how they walk, so I don't need to have their hips x-rayed! Wrong! Even board certified veterinary orthopedists cannot accurately diagnose or eliminate the possibility of hip dysplasia by watching dogs walk and move about.

#7. Whether I health test my Rottweilers and what the results may be are nobody's business but my own! Wrong! It is irresponsible to the breed, to other breeders, and to buyers to refuse to disclose genetic health test results of Rottweiler breeding stock.

#6. Current health tests are not always accurate, and I won’t health test my Rotts until I know that the results will be totally accurate and definitive! While there never are absolute guaranties in medical testing, the recommended health testing procedures are the most accurate ones available, and are updated as additional scientific information becomes available. This excuse is the last refuge of the irresponsible breeder who refuses to recognize what harm he is doing to the Rottweiler breed by breeding only for looks and ignoring severe genetic health defects.

#5. Health testing is just a marketing tool used by some breeders! Wrong, again! Another oft-used excuse for not health testing Rottweiler breeding stock. Claiming to health test, but not actually fully health testing and disclosing the results, is a marketing tool used by many breeders.

#4. If I had to follow the Moral & Ethical breeding practices I wouldn't have any Rotts to breed! Then, perhaps this breeder should be looking for some other breed of dog to ruin. A sure sign of ignorance about the Rottweiler. The Moral and Ethical breeding practices ensures that the numbers of genetically unsound animals decreases over time and less and less will be produced with these genetic problems.

#3. Too much health testing will prevent me from producing Rottweilers of proper type and temperament! So, what this breeder ends up producing is pretty Rottweilers which are much more likely to suffer from long-term agonizing pain and die young.

#2. I know where you got those questions, and that website just wants to destroy the breed! When breeders know they are not doing the right thing, they will blame anyone other than themselves. Breeders who do not fully health test their dogs and do not follow the breeding protocols are the ones who are damaging the future of the Rottweiler breed.
And the Number One Worst Excuse Rottweiler breeders use for not health testing:

#1. There is no [insert genetic defect here] in my Rottweilers bloodlines! Wrong! Wrong! Wrong! Every Rottweiler bloodline is infected with all of these severe genetic defects.


Finally, for extra credit, the ultimate attempt by irresponsible Rottweiler breeders to "put down" the puppy buyers who ask the tough questions is this one: I know what I'm talking about and you don't because I'm a breeder and you're not!

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The Backyard Breeders' and Puppy Millers' Big Book of Old Excuses
© Denna Pace 2001


1. When called on bad breeding practices, ALWAYS claim that you are merely an innocent posting as a favor to a friend or family member who was irrisponsable or tell them it is the kids pocket money and they are helping raise the pups.

2. Point out that everybody you know, breeds this way, therefore it is ok. Copy off of quality reputable sites so you can fix your crushed ebonicks or jumbled up slang you use as a poor uneducated breeder. So you can sound like you know what you are talking about.

3. Claim that "snobby show breeders" or "big time breeders" are only criticizing you because they want to corner the market on puppy profit or control it so they can sell more dogs to the public as you keep pumping out garbage.

4. Claim that ONE Champion in the pedigree is just as good as 56 Champions in the pedigree. Not that it matters, because you doubt that there is such a thing as a dog with 56 champions in the pedigree and that titles mean nothing in a dog and yours are just as good.

5. Claim that you are just trying to produce good PETS, therefore good pets are all you need for breeding. Your pets make your way in life and pay their vet bills. Claim you keep them forever....you just don't "dump them" as you state they are your "family", and then note because you are in the city you have a limit of 3 dogs. where are the other dogs you keep forever?...as they are your family?!?!

6. When asked about health testing, enthusiastically point out that your bitch had a health checkup before breeding. And you do not need x-rays because they cause cancer and the vet said they looked good. ( I would believe this but superman never worked as a vet) I "upgraded and now have "fair" hip rated female/male, I am breeding to my NO rated female/male....thus I am bettering the breed......(go figure...brains???)

7. Be sure to mention that you do not need to run such health tests as OFA, OVC, ADRK, CERF, thyroid, cardiac, etc., because your dogs look healthy and had no visible problems at their last vet checkup.

8. Point out that these tests cost too much and would cut into your profit margin and dog buying. Be sure to champion the right for poor people to breed dogs too.

9. Confidently assure worried rescuers that no puppy you produce, or any of their puppies or grand puppies or great-grandpuppies will end up in shelters because you have a bunch of friends who have told you that they'd like a pup from your bitch. And for what you sell them for, you get no one who will ever treat them bad or put them on a chain. As you feel no need to ever check up on them because they were good people.

10. Point out that you don't need Championships or working titles on your dogs because you are breeding for temperament and your dog is really sweet and health is not as important.

11. Silence those annoying people who ask about your health guarantee by assuring them that buyers can return any sick puppies and you will replace it with another pup as long as it got sick within a certain amount of time of sale and as long as you don't think the buyer did something to make the puppy sick. Use just the puppy lemon law in your state as a guarantee that you stand behind but will not put your word in writing on what you breed.

12. If your breed or line is rare (or you have a "rare" color, or believe your breed or color is rare), be sure to remind everyone that you do not need to show, temperament test, or health test your breeding stock because you are doing the world a service by continuing this "rare" breed/color/line.

13. No matter what anyone else says, claim that you obviously know what you are doing because you've been breeding for a long time. Point to the hundreds of puppies you've pumped out over the years as proof.

14. If this is your first attempt at breeding, make sure to remind everyone that you HAVE to breed your dog because how else are you going to learn how to breed?

15. Assure everyone that your dog does not need to be shown because you were assured by someone at Petsmart/the park/the vet's office/a friend that your dog is a perfect example of the breed.

16. Always remember that "rare" colors, oversized or undersized dogs, and mixes of popular breeds are great selling points. Anyone who doesn't think so is obviously not in tune with their customers' wishes.

17. Claim that your dogs are better because they are not inbred, as inbreeding obviously produces sick/stupid/deformed dogs. If breeding poo [as in "Cock-a-Poo," "Peek-a-Poo," etc.] dogs or other mutts, always point to "hybrid vigor" as proof of your dogs' superiority.

18. Remind everyone that you do not need a waiting list because your puppies are cute.

19. Assure everyone that your puppies will not end up in shelters because they are cute.

20. Claim that YOUR breed never ends up in shelters in your area, therefore your puppies will never end up in shelters.

21. If asked why you think your dogs are breeding quality, point out that they "have papers." Because for some reason you think papers make a better dog. AKC is a pedigree and does give a pedigree for junk too. Extra points awarded for using the phrase "AKC Certified." Double points if those papers come from the Continental Kennel Club. I mean all you need is a picture, what more should you ask for? That is good enough for you.

22. If you sell a sick puppy, always blame the owners for making it sick. If the owners are clearly not responsible, blame their vet. (see #11)

23. If presented with irrefutable evidence proving you wrong information on or any excuses you have used, pretend your server did not receive the post/e-mail or it went into your junk mail. Or that you will contact a lawyer because you are offended and the truth can hurt sometimes.

24. Claim that none of the rules of ethical breeding apply to you because you only intend to have one litter and therefore aren't a "real" breeder.

25. If all else fails, tell everyone who criticizes you for asking important questions and not limited to hip cert., pedigree's, seeing their place, where they get their dogs and more..... "get a life if they are not getting you what you are asking for." or tell them you have another breeder who is "helping you" and knows, but yet you never better what you are breeding. "Birds of a feather flock together!"

Make sure you check your pedigrees for one of the things to look for in a good breeder!! we have found in looking some breeders to be inbreeding their dogs, yet they brag about their "quality!?!"...so ask them their definition of "quality" and if they know what the difference between linebreeding and "inbreeding is?!" make sure you know too. (ask your vet or AKC, UKC) These so called quality breeders, Do the lines no good, the breed no good, the people no good! Here is how a quality pedigree that once was, gets messed up and ruined so it really doesn't matter who the champions or dog in the back were because they were bred with dogs of no merit or health clearings and maybe confirmational down falls which should never have been bred. This becomes crap that people breed and have no clue on breeding so they ruin the dog by breeding stupid! We can show you some examples of some we found ourselves in looking, so you understand what to look for as it is public information. Or ask them yourself....if they give you a copy of their pedigree. Take it to your vet or get online and educate yourself. If they make up some excuse or don't want to give it, I would find another breeder who IS willing to share information on a dog you will be buying to add to your family. If they don't it would indicate to me they do not care about their dogs or their customers they sell too. Quality breeders have nothing to hide, because they do what they are suppose to for the good of the breed, the pup and you the customer.

It is YOUR money and you are giving YOUR money to someone, you should ask whatever you want about their product!!! If they have an issue with that I would personally run and take your money somewhere else!!

Go to a breeder who will help you, answer all your questions, do they do their genetic tests and show proof of the paper work? Do they have a written guarantee you like? If so... It shows they care about you the buyer and thier pups too! Be their for the life of the dog and does care about the program in which they breed, promote and work to better it!!